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Surfing

Imagine you are surfing the waves, just living for the moment. Everything else is unimportant. Later you are lying on the beach, enjoying the sunshine and feeling re-born. Once you have felt this sensational feeling you will always want more.

Surfing is a type of sport. Actually it is more than that, it´s a connection between you, the sea and your board. You are not only physically connected, it becomes part of your soul as well. This type of association is the main part of the surf experience. It is addictive, universal and at times almighty! If you haven´t yet tried it, take the chance to do so now. Surfing gets under your skin and the surf connection will stay with you the rest of your life. It is better to have surfed once and then to give it up than never to have surfed at all.

August 16, 2008 Posted by | raw art gallery, sports, Surfing, Uncategorized | , | 1 Comment

Surfing – Step Into Liquid

July 20, 2008 Posted by | photography, raw art gallery, sports, Surfing, Uncategorized | | Leave a comment

Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay Day 2 Highlights

July 14, 2008 Posted by | photography, raw art gallery, Surfing, Uncategorized | , | Leave a comment

What Is Surfing?

What is Surfing? 

What is surfing but an outlet for anxiety and stress, an inlet for nature and satisfaction, a connection between you and the ocean with your board acting like some semi-conductor of magnetic and gravitational forces pulsing from the center the sprawling expanse of nature itself? Sounds a bit fluffy, huh? But stay with me on this. It’s this connection that is at the very core of the surfing experience. This connection is addictive, all-encompassing, and sometimes all-powerful. This connection enthralls many to forsake relationships, careers, and even their own health only to emerge ten years down the line, weather-beaten and alone with only memories of great waves and great times.

“What’s wrong with that?” you ask. Then you know where I am coming from. It all sounds tragic, but it is a noble addiction. Some risk their lives hurling themselves over precipices of liquid concrete into the guts of a 10-meter meat grinder with little fanfare but maybe a few hoots from the channel. Sure, there are praise and money in the surf industry abuzz with cameras, cash, and competition, but that makes up such a small portion of the surfing experience that it’s hardly worth mentioning.

Surfers don’t need a team or a game to test their mettle. There are simply rider, board, and a fluid, uneven, and predictably unpredictable playing field, an unfeeling surface ready to swallow you whole or spit you out in shreds onto the sand, or worse, lay dormant and leave you lost and dry among the landlocked masses who have no understanding of why you get up at dawn in the splitting cold for nothing more than mushy wind swell. Hell, I doubt you even know why you do it.

Surfing is a mystery, but with enough romance to draw in droves of disciples. Some put in a season and then fade back into normalcy, unsatisfied with the high or all done mining the lifestyle of its image. Others, however, get hooked in the best way. We are the lucky ones. We see surfing as a ticket to a place only the chosen get to see. A place where only fins keep us from taking flight, where a sixteen old and a fifty year old can understand each other’s passion, a place safe enough to send your daughter but just dangerous enough to keep your boss away.

If you haven’t tried it, go for it. Surfing might move you to the core or just touch you beautifully and leave. It is, however, better to have surfed and quit then never to have surfed at all.

March 31, 2008 Posted by | News, Surfing, Tel Aviv - Israel | | 1 Comment

Moroccan Waves

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For centuries Morocco has been attracting poets, artists and adventurous travelers in search of exotic exploration. Despite this surge of discovery, Morocco’s finest treasure has somehow remained a mystery. The 3,000 kilometers of unsurfed terrain riddled with hollow right-hand barrels is anything but a myth. Overshadowed by snake charmers, veiled Moroccan women, and medieval labyrinth medinas, these beckoning waves are witnessed only by those who dare to paddle into the magic.Located in Northern Africa, Morocco has recently become labeled as “the land of the pointbreak,” offering uncrowded, warm and consistent waves year round. On the Atlantic side, reef and beach breaks alternate, offering twelve-second barrels that peal with a J-Bayesque feel. Best surfed from September though March, they fire as big as15-feet during the winter months and can break up to a kilometer in length.

Locating your dream wave is virtually trouble-free. There is decent surf in Northern Morocco near Rabat, but when the big swells run down the coast, it is best to hit the pointbreaks near Agadir. Although there is no surf in Agadir itself, the easiest way to the coast is by flying into this bustling city and driving thirty minutes north with a rental car. This region provides an ideal surfing destination thanks to the combination of swells created by North Atlantic depressions, the light offshore trade winds, and a variety of breaks.

Surrounded by towering granite cliffs, the sparsely populated coastline is dotted with olive trees and colorful Berber fishing villages. Cobalt shutters highlight the pristine sugar-cube buildings lining the shores. Sheltered by protective hills, sunshine is virtually guaranteed in this region. With over 300 days of sun per year, the water temperature averages 18 degrees Celsius. North of Agadir you will find over fifteen killer surf spots within minutes of each other, all without the threat of sharks or coral.

Most surfers wind up in Tagazoute, a dusty, laid-back hippy village edged with souvenir shops selling jewelry, carpets and teapots. Winding alleyways lead to vibrant mottled restaurants serving fresh mint tea, couscous and lamb tajine. If surfing is your sole mission, Tagazoute is the most sensible place to set up camp. Hole-in-the-wall surf shops line the main street and offer board rentals, wetsuits, and ding repair. Surf Shop Africa has a relaxed Moroccan staff that will hook you up with a board, wetsuit, and directions to secret spots for $7 a day.

If the Moroccan mystic has left you travel weary, Moroccan Surf Adventures (MSA) is located just five minutes south in the tranquil fishing village of Tamrhakht.  MSA owners Chris and Denny, provide accommodations, meals, equipment and transportation to all the best waves. They recently hosted surfers like Shane Dorian, Dan Malloy, Mike Losness and Sarah Bentley.

For surfers who prefer solo paddling, the best option is to hit serious spots such as Killer Point and La Source. Others in search of shelter from the 10 ft grinders might head to Hash Point at the northern end of the village. The consistent right got its name from surfers who smoked too much hash and considered the walk to better spots overburdening.

One of Morocco’s most famous waves, Anchor Point, is located within walking distance from Taghazout. During peak season, Anchor can get overcrowded and the small takeoff area makes it challenging for intermediate surfers. The majority of diehards will hit the waves by either jumping off the rocks or paddling far out from the North. Timing is crucial however, as strong currents and rocky shores can turn this hallo tube into a board snapper.

Named after the killer whales that sometimes cruise the area, Killer Point is just a few miles north and offers one of the best waves in the area. Sheltered from the North winds, the wave starts in front of a massive rock and is best on the inside. Known to hold waves up to 12 ft, Killers can be almost perfect on the right day. Few surfers seem bothered by the twenty-minute paddle to the line-up, claiming that the suffering is well worth the long right-hander victory.

Located just south of Killers is La Source, a sought after spot on small days. The point fires consistent right and left peaks and is ideal during a medium swell. On the shore, there are also rock formations bubbling up with fresh water where surfers can rinse off after a day of eating salt and sand.

Boilers, situated in the northernmost spot of the region, offers a consistent, powerful wave that breaks just south of Cap Ghir lighthouse. Short, barreling waves break on the remnants of a ghostly shipwreck, which has been known to serve up 60-second rides. The downside however, is the urchin-infested shoreline that makes getting in and out of the water a bit of a challenge.

Located at the mouth of a riverbed, Banana Beach is a local beach break that delivers punchy 4-6 ft sets. When it closes out at low tide, paddle next door to Panorama’s for a fast, round wave that breaks in front of Panorama’s Café. The right-hand point break works best at mid tide, but with bigger swells, the rips can get a bit strong and you will have to constantly paddle to stay positioned. If you enter to the north of the break, the current will sweep you right into the lineup.

Devil’s Rock lies just two kilometers south of Banana Beach. Surfable during all tides, Devil’s offers one of the few left-hand tubes in the area. During summer months you can head ten minutes up the coast to Tamri and Imessouane. This unbroken stretch of beaches picks up the swell just as other spots are running flat. Surfing here is best during low tide when there is a small swell and light offshore winds. These spots require sunrise sessions, as they are often blown out by mid-afternoon.

For those who have had their fill of Agadir’s treasures, it is also possible to head south and discover some classic waves. Sidi Infi is just three hours down the coast and provides a fresh vibe and decent waves. The quirky town is an eclectic mix of Spanish art deco and traditional Moroccan styles. Conveniently, it is also the home of deserted beach breaks that border the village.

Despite the perfection of Morocco’s surfing potential, female surfers must still be vigilant. The majority of Morocco’s fine crescent beaches are clean and hassle-free, but single females are still likely to be pestered by men aimlessly roaming the shores. Independent female travelers, especially surfers, are seen as exciting, exotic and generally available. Hiring a local to keep an eye on your car while you surf is money well spent since theft is extremely common in Morocco.

All it takes to charm the Moroccan waves is a little caution, a lot of courage, and a sense of adventure. Here, you just might discover the best waves of your life.

March 29, 2008 Posted by | sports, Surfing | , , | Leave a comment